California Coasting
by Ruby Elbogen, Editor
Not always thought of being on the California Coast, Berkeley is in the East Bay, 
just across Oakland's Bay Bridge from San Francisco. Home to the Golden State's first UC campus, and the Cal Bears, Berkeley is a place unto itself. Multi-million dollar hillside homes, the homeless in People's Park, health food stores, soap-box preachers, a hodge podge of everything. A must see destination. We enjoyed being at The Rose Garden, a Bed & Breakfast Inn, just outside the hustle and bustle of the UC area. The Inn, a blending of two mansions, and both gardens, was transformed into one inviting property. Rooms vary in size, are decorated in a Victorian theme, and a complimentary breakfast is served every morning. Liason, a restaurant featuring French Food For The Soul. To say we loved this place is an exaggeration. The menu included chicken, fish, steak, seafood, and vegetarian items. There was something for everyone, including--Ta Dah--authentic French fries, browned crispy in rice oil. Save room for dessert.
SAN LUIS OBISPO
While its not quite on the California coastline, San Luis Obispo, the mid-point between the bay area and Los Angeles, is close enough. While its nickname is SLO, things definitely do not move at a snails pace in this vibrant and constantly changing town. 
My stop in SLO included spending the night at an icon, The Madonna Inn. Anyone who hasn't exited Hwy. 101, at the Madonna to visit this legendary place, has missed a great opportunity to experience. Here one can see what can be done with an out of the ordinary artistic vision of what travelers are looking for. Rooms and suites range from just above usual, to way out in fantasy land. There are cave-like suites with rock formations, cascading waterfalls in the bathrooms, and other unusual amenities. Taking a tour includes visiting European and American themed rooms, nooks and crannies and anything else the Inn's late founder, Alex Madonna could conjure up to please and surprise guests. Although the Madonna Inn is decades old, the family continues the tradition of upgrading and finding new ways to please those who either stop for a meal in their wonderful restaurant, or a getaway. A new spa has been added to the site, and a swimming pool is in the works.
Blue, in downtown SLO, is one of the best eateries in town. Along with an innovative menu and an astonishing wine list, Blue has wine lockers for regular customers. The town is earning a reputation as being a major wine center.
OXNARD
Oxnard is a town on the move. In relatively short order it has re-invented itself, and gone from agricultural-military, to upscale-trendy. While agriculture and the Navy are still major components, so are expensive tracts of homes, lovely hotels, restaurants in every price range, outlet stores and the
new Herzog Wine Cellars, tasting room and Kosher gourmet Restaurant. Herzog has already become a popular dining establishment, attracting clientele of all persuasions to its doors. The food is tasty, and self guided tours of the winery are clearly denoted. The Hilton Garden Inn, with its cozy fireplace lobby, friendly staff and large comfortable, well appointed rooms has the feel of a boutique hotel. The addition of a pool, workout room, business center and on-site restaurant combine to make a very pleasant stay. Its close proximity to the outlet stores makes The Hilton Garden Inn a good shop and stay destination.
SAN DIEGO
San Diego, our southernmost destination, is always the city I always look forward to visiting. This time we had the great pleasure spending time at the new Tower 23, a hotel, literally, on the sand in Pacific Beach. Named for its location at Life Guard Tower 23, and built in the minimalist style of the W Hotels, The Tower is sleek and luxurious. Rooms are large, and the gorgeous panoramic views of the sea and sand are amazing. Rooms surround a large outdoor patio area, with a shallow sunning pool and de
ck lounges. There are walking and bike paths along the boardwalk, along the ocean; as well as all the sights, sounds, entertainment and tastes of San Diego. JRDN, just inside Tower 23, is a restaurant with an innovative menu, featuring California cuisine with an Asian twist. Pair remarkably good food with an ocean view and success will surely follow. JRDN, is not just another restaurant, it is an experience, I highly recommend off the beaten path in Pacific Beach. Our last evening, in my favorite San Diego neighborhood, the Gaslamp District was even brighter after dinner at Ristorante Acqua Al 2, fashioned after Acqua Al 1, in Firenze Italy. The authentic bold Italian tastes of Acqua's food is too delicious to even begin to describe. Our many course Prix Fixe dinner included several pasta dishes, steak served with various sauces, including one with blueberry and a dessert plate with an array of sweet choices. Acqua also features all the mouth watering Italian staples, as well as chicken, fresh fish and seafood. It may be Acqua 2 is absolutely numero uno with us. To go California Coasting, Just hit the road, go north or south, discover new places--and have fun.
Dolphins of Monterey Bay
by Nancy Black
Marine Biologist, Monterey Bay Whale Watch Center
Dolphins, with 33 species worldwide, possess a complex brain, social and communication system, 
and are highly adapted physiologically for life at sea. Dolphin schools are composed of subgroups that include closely related individuals with the strongest bonds between related females. Although subgroups generally remain intact, the overall school size fluctuates. In contrast to baleen whales that migrate seasonally to specific feeding and breeding areas, most small cetaceans exhibit more subtle seasonal changes in distribution, abundance and behavior. Such factors as the availability of food resources, predation pressure, physical characteristics of the environment, sex and age class segregation, and reproductive status influence the ecology of small cetaceans.
Six species of dolphins occur in Monterey Bay either year-round or seasonally. The bay with a submarine canyon and its location within a major upwelling zone is an extremely rich and productive area, providing food for thousands of dolphins. These include the near-shore bottlenose dolphins and the pelagic species; Pacific white-sided dolphins, Risso’s dolphins, northern right whale dolphins, and both long and short beaked common dolphins.
Pacific white-sided dolphins are one of the most abundant dolphins endemic to the temperate North Pacific. In Monterey Bay, these dolphins are frequently sighted near the canyon edge. By analyzing stomach contents of stranded dolphins in Monterey Bay, I found they contained 12 species of fish and squid, and commonly fed on northern anchovy, Pacific whiting, and a variety of pelagic small squid. These dolphins work together as a team to herd small fish into tight balls near the surface. Humpback whales often take advantage of this and lunge up through the fish with their mouths wide open to feed on hundreds of fish. White-sided dolphins can be extremely acrobatic and are the only dolphin in the North Pacific that can complete a full somersault in mid-air. They are often found in groups ranging from a few hundred to several thousand.
Risso’s dolphins are also frequently sighted and highly abundant in the Monterey Bay region and are also known to frequent high relief, heterogeneous and shelf-edge habitats. Their presence and group sizes have generally increased since the 87-91 period (mean group size 113) compared to an average of 298 in recent years. During the winter of 2004-05, Risso’s dolphins were sighted nearly every day, often in groups exceeding 500 animals with the largest group estimated at 6,000. This corresponded to the known presence of Jumbo Squid. The large numbers caught by fisherman in Monterey Bay confirmed abundance of this squid. The squid were in the 4-6’ range and are a known prey for Risso’s dolphins. It’s not unusual for groups of Risso’s dolphins to occur in the shallower shelf waters of the bay, since the deep canyon is so close here, the Risso’s may venture near-shore on occasion to rest or feed on spawning market squid. I analyzed a stomach from a stranded Risso’s in the area and found it was full, unusual for most Risso’s dolphin strandings and it contained 13 different species of squid.
Northern right whale dolphins, an unusual torpedo shaped dolphin with no dorsal fin, have a similar distribution to Pacific white-sided dolphins and in Monterey Bay are frequently sighted (84% of time) in association with Pacific white-sided dolphins and/or Risso’s dolphins. These three species often form mixed species groups especially when the total group size of all three exceeds several hundreds of individuals. Multi-species groups of dolphins, a common phenomenon in Monterey Bay, could provide more options in feeding strategies and provide a similar protective function as large single species herds.
Both species of common dolphins, long and short beaked, are associated with warmer waters. Long beaked commons are found most often during late fall and winter in groups of 500 or more dolphins. Short beaked commons are infrequently sighted and were most abundant during the 97-98 El Nino period. The long beaked type is often sighted from shore, as they tend to travel in circuits throughout the area often approaching the inner bay waters in the mornings. They may stay for several days or weeks before moving on. They first appeared during the 82-83 El Nino then sporadically after that until the 90’s when they were often a seasonal visitor. Long beaked common dolphins feed predominantly on anchovies and market squid. With a similar diet to Pacific white-sided dolphins, these two dolphins may alternate abundance.
Bottlenose dolphins are the only species that inhabit the shallow waters of Monterey Bay, usually just outside the surf line. They first were noticed in Monterey Bay during the 82-83 El Nino and some of the dolphins were known individuals that had previously lived in warmer southern California waters. They are currently year-round residents that travel in small groups (less than 15) and are often observed from shore throughout the inner bay.
Monterey Bay is clearly an important area for dolphins reflected in their frequent occurrence and high abundance suggesting this rich region provides a predictable and abundant food source throughout the year. In addition to dolphins, Monterey Bay is a prime location to observe humpback and blue whales as they feed here during the summer and fall.
For more information on viewing whales and dolphins year-round please look at www.gowhales.com where daily sightings are posted.
Here come the Gray Whales
For most people on the west coast, when they think of whales, they 
think of the winter migration of the California gray whales. These friendly critters migrate close along our shores from Alaska to Baja and return every year on what has been called the longest migration of any mammal – about 12,000 miles round trip. In the Santa Barbara Channel the grays pass between the Channel Islands in January and February on their way to Baja for mating and pupping, and pass close by Santa Barbara’s shores, often within just a few feet of the beach, on their way back to Alaska to feed. One of the great and unique pleasures in Santa Barbara is sitting in a waterfront restaurant in March or April watching a cow/calf pair make their way slowly along the coastline… or taking a charter boat for a close up look at this spectacle of nature.
The main reason they travel so close to the beach on their northern migration is that mamma is protecting her calf from killer whales (Orcas), which will follow the herd and attack both mother and calf if she ventures too far offshore or into deep water where they are vulnerable to attack from below.
When Orcas are present, the mother will often head for the nearest boat or structure and press the calf against the hull in an attempt to protect the calf from attack.
When the whale watching industry in Santa Barbara began in 1973, whale enthusiasts were heartened by the fact that the gray whale herd had grown to an estimated 8300 animals… quite an increase over the few hundred animals in the mid 1940’s that had survived the onslaught of decades of whaling. Today that herd is estimated to contain over 25,000 animals! It is thought that we now have as many California gray whales in the eastern Pacific as there ever were… this population is now at an historical high. Gray whales can be seen at the islands, particularly in the gap between Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa islands, during December, January and February. They can be seen along the coast, often almost in the surf line, during the months of March and April.
Trips on the CONDOR Express run daily for gray whales in December through April. ½ day island trips run 10am to 2:30 pm from December to mid-February. 2 ½ hour coastal trips run at 9am, noon and 3pm daily from mid-February through April. For reservations or information, call SEA Landing at 805-882-0088 or toll free 1-888-77WHALE.
Romance and Relaxation on the Mendocino Coast
by Tom Owens
If springtime is indeed when fancy turns to love, there is no better time to tour the Mendocino Coast. This secluded 
stretch of California coastline has retained a majestic beauty best shared with your favorite soul mate.
We began our Mendocino adventure by following the Russian River along Highway 116 to Jenner. There, we caught Highway 1 and wound our way north about 30 miles to Gualala.
The cornerstone of the community is the Gualala Arts Center, home to the Art in the Redwoods Festival held annually in late August. Many galleries in town show collections of local works, including Dolphin Gallery and Shop. The local artists also hold an annual Studio Discovery Tour in late August-early September.
Our first lodging destination was the North Coast Country Inn at Anchor Bay. We were greeted by our friendly hosts Bill Shupe and Maureen Topping, who led us through lush fern-lined gardens to the spacious Southwind guest room. We had a lovely peak 
of the ocean through towering redwoods and pines, a cozy fireplace and a relaxing whirlpool tub.
For dinner, we chose St. Orres, a fine restaurant of stunning Russian architecture. Our meal started with the most fantastically creative salad, a geometric structure built of cubed watermelon, arugula, goat cheese, orange slices and skewered blackberries. An appetizer of wild mushroom ravioli’s was followed by a wonderful rack of lamb.
We thanked our exquisite chef and host, Rosemary Campiformio, and headed back to the Inn to enjoy the secluded hot tub under a grove of redwoods. Lying back in the bubbling waters, we watched the California stars and listened to boisterous sea lions barking in the distance. Heaven.
After an amazing quiche breakfast in the morning, our next stop was the Point Arena Lighthouse for a climb up the 136 steps of the 115-foot tower. It’s quite a view from the top, even for us scaredy cats too afraid of heights to venture out on the balcony.
Back down on terra firma, we continued north to the Elk Cove Inn & Spa, an 1893 Craftsman-style mansion sitting atop an ocean bluff in the town of Elk. From the balcony of our luxury suite we watched the sunset over one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the state. Our host David Lieberman welcomed us at dinner that night at the Inn’s outstanding ‘Zebo restaurant. After starters of sautéed oysters, I had a hearty lamb osso bucco and Emily chose the pan-seared California halibut.
We spent the following morning beachcombing the cove for driftwood and beach glass. Later, we followed a seaside path to the town of Elk. We had lunch at Queenie’s Roadside Café and stopped at the Elk Studio Gallery, buying a few gifts for the folks back home.
From Elk, it was a short drive north to the Little River Inn. This is the oldest and largest resort in the area, with 65 rooms, a nine-hole golf course, two tennis courts and a salon/day spa. We were fortunate enough to stay at the White Cottage. This secluded bungalow is about two miles south of the Inn, perched all by its lonesome on an ocean bluff. The outdoor hot tub on our private deck was fabulous!
That evening, the Inn sent a car that delivered us back to the Garden Dining Room for dinner. I enjoyed pan-seared wild king salmon while Emily selected fresh petrale sole from local Noyo Harbor. After dinner, we retired to Ole’s Bar, where bartender Sue Bondoux whipped up a spectacular Frangelica and steamed milk.
The following morning it was on to Mendocino. We had stayed in Mendocino as newly-weds 27 years ago and, surprisingly, it seemed little had changed. We enjoyed the farmers’ markets, the street poets, and a curious town full of galleries, shops and restaurants of all shapes and colors.
At the Sea Rock Bed & Breakfast Inn, a bit out of town on the ocean highlands, we savored beautiful views of the coastline from our spacious three-room suite. The amenities were first class and the staff was extremely helpful.
Our hostess suggested that we try Mendo Bistro in Fort Bragg for dinner. Located on Main Street, it is upstairs in the vintage Company Store. Our host and chef Nicholas Petti put together an exceptional menu of American bistro cuisine, many featuring local fish and organic produce and meats. Emily had the free-range chicken; I had a sampler of organically grown pork. Both were wonderful.
Fort Bragg is home to Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, 47 acres of beautiful grounds and hiking paths that take you to stunning ocean bluffs. A visit is highly recommended for constant gardeners, and there is a nursery where you can purchase local flora. Every time I tend to our two purchased plants at home it brings me back to our fabulous trip.
We left Mendocino via Highway 128 and the Anderson Valley. This is a prime grape growing valley in Mendocino with many fine wineries and tasting rooms. We stopped at the Husch Vineyard tasting room, a charming little cabin, and purchased a 2004 Mendocino Chardonnay and 2001 North Field Select Cabernet Sauvignon for future enjoyment. It was the perfect capper to a relaxing and romantic week on the Mendocino Coast.
Morro Bay & Cayucos:
Two Great Coastal Towns to Visit This Fall
Story by Lynne Eodice
Most people head for the beach during the summer months, but there are many reasons to visit California’s lovely 
coastal towns at other times of the year. After Labor Day, tourist visitation diminishes, which means more economical hotel rates and fewer crowds. In the fall, the weather is still warm and beautiful—often without the fog that blankets the coast in the summertime. Charming beach towns like Morro Bay and the neighboring Cayucos can be very relaxing and enjoyable in the fall.
Morro Bay: Nature Reserve
In recent years, Morro Bay has become one of my favorite weekend places to visit. On my latest trip, my friend and I arrived one evening around dinnertime and had a great, unobstructed view of Morro Rock from our outdoor deck at a local restaurant. During this excursion, I learned that Morro Rock, sometimes called the “Gibraltar of the Pacific”, is actually one of a series of ancient volcanic peaks known as The Nine Sisters. These rocky peaks extend from San Luis Obispo out beyond Morro Rock. The ninth peak is actually submerged at the bottom of the Pacific beyond Morro Rock.
A walkway stretches along the waterfront in front of the Embarcadero, and we followed it to take walks from our motel room to Morro Rock each morning. In the opposite direction, we walked to Tidelands Park on the south end of town, which overlooks the bay and offers scenic views of Morro Rock and sailboats in the harbor. We also enjoyed seeing—and photographing—the occasional seagull or heron in the bay. In fact, Morro Bay is an estuary, where freshwater creeks meet salty ocean water. In addition to the seafowl that resides in this area, Morro Bay is famous for protecting the Southern Sea Otter. This venerable critter appears on postcards, tee-shirts and other souvenirs found in shops up and down the Embarcadero, and occasionally we spotted the real thing from a distance floating on its back in the water.
The next day, we drove inland on Highway 46 to go wine tasting in Paso Robles. Although we visited just a few great wineries, Paso Robles offers over a hundred vineyards to choose from. Back in Morro Bay, we shopped at several of the galleries and gift shops along the Embarcadero, one of my favorites, the Garden Gallery, offers beautiful plants and unique items for the home. On our last evening in town, we had a delicious seafood dinner at the Harbor Hut restaurant. Morro Bay’s many restaurants along the Embarcadero all offer beautiful views of the harbor and ambience that only a California beach town can deliver.
Hope Lives in Cayucos
Just north of Morro Bay lies the quiet, unassuming town of Cayucos, situated between the Pacific Ocean and the rolling hills of open ranchland. Some people have deemed it “the last of the California beach towns.” My husband and I arrived in Cayucos one night after dining in Morro Bay, and I took pictures of the Cayucos Community Church, a quaint building that emblazoned the message “Hope” in bright lights above its door.
We stayed at the very lovely (and pet-friendly) Cayucos Beach Inn. After breakfast the next morning, we walked across Highway 1 and down some steps to the beach access. The white sandy beach at Cayucos is beautiful, with views of Morro Rock to the south and attractive homes lining the shore. We took a memorable morning walk, where we met friendly Cayucos denizens, watched early morning surfers, and some pooches who enjoyed catching Frisbees along the water’s edge.
Cayucos’ main street is dotted with antique stores, surf shops and some old western buildings that preserve the town’s heritage. There are also several restaurants and cafes, including the acclaimed Hoppe’s Garden Bistro, which is housed in a historic 1876 way station. As we headed north, we passed the historic home of James Cass, who was responsible for building the pier back in the 1800s. We came away from Cayucos with the feeling that it was a real find, a beach town that we’ll undoubtedly revisit on our next trip to the Central Coast.