Exploring California’s National Marine Sanctuaries
 

Photos and story by Kip F. Evans
 

There’s something about gliding on the surface of the ocean on a calm day that’s hard to put into words.  Maybe it the sound of the water softly slapping against the hull of the boat, or maybe it’s the tranquility of being far from the evening commute.
For me it’s always been about the company. Since the early 1980’s, I’ve been lucky enough to explore large groups of whales, dolphins, and other marine mammals on excursions offshore. I’ve watched in amazement as humpback whales surfaced within yards of my boat and poked their massive heads above the water to spy. I’ve also been fortunate enough to spend time beneath the surface, to discover countless reefs, deep canyons and towering kelp forests. Most encounters have taken place in National Marine Sanctuaries along the California Coast.
Established in 1972, the National Marine Sanctuary Program was created in part, to help prevent further offshore drilling along the California Coast. Nationally, 13 marine sanctuaries and a national monument have been created to protect marine life, shipwrecks, water quality and a variety of sensitive habitats.
On California’s coast there are four protecting over 8,500 square miles. Two of these, Gulf of the Farallones and Monterey Bay, touch the shoreline and provide protection for beaches and vital wetland areas. The other two, Cordell Bank and the Channel Islands, reside farther offshore and are only accessible by boat.
 
 

Cordell Bank
 

Cordell Bank, the northern most Pacific marine sanctuary, is on the edge of the continental shelf. Its most impressive feature is an offshore rocky bank, 4.5 miles wide by 9.5 miles long; an underwater island of granite that emerges from the continental shelf to within 120 feet of the ocean’s surface. The sanctuary is over 40 miles northwest of the Golden Gate Bridge and 18 west of the Point Reyes lighthouse. It’s remote location is in strong currents and too deep for most recreational diving except for specially trained divers. Researchers from the National Marine Sanctuary Program use submersibles and remotely operated vehicles (ROVs), allowing scientists to explore the bottom.
During a number of scientific expeditions I have been fortunate enough to photograph some of the amazing sea birds and whales from this area visiting the surface waters each year, and colorful reefs far below the surface. Using a submersible in 2004, our team made dives to different locations on the bank and were able to document giant Pacific octopus at the bottom. We spotted countless species of fish and the remains of lost fishing gear, we plan to retrieve in early 2007. The oceanic conditions are ideal for many creatures. From tiny planktonic drifters to huge blue whales, Cordell Bank is underwater oasis only miles from the busy streets of San Francisco.
 
 

Gulf of the Farallones
 

The Gulf of Farallones encompasses over 1,230 square miles including near shore waters and beaches, Point Reyes, Tomales Bay, and Bolinas Lagoon extending from Bodega Head in the north, to the off shore waters of Half Moon Bay in the south.  Southeast Farallon and its surrounding waters are important for thousands of breading sea birds, marine mammals and great white sharks. Elephant seals also visit this Sanctuary in large numbers where they come to shore to breed and molt. 
Once endangered, gray whales are easily seen from many shore-top locations during the early winter months and then again in late spring. Gray whales pass through the Marine Sanctuary on their way to and from summer calving grounds in the warm lagoons of Baja California. As part of a research expedition in 1998, I was fortunate enough to spend a few days on Southeast Farallon. The island’s dramatic peaks, steep trails and incredible wildlife struck a deep cord with me, I used every minute during my visit to explore and document this island. Before sunrise one morning, I was lucky enough to watch the full moon descended into the ocean just beyond the island. An incredible sight as it illuminated hundreds of busy sea birds heading off to sea to find their catch of the day.

 
 
Monterey Bay
 

From Marin county to Cambria, below Big Sur, the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary encompasses over 5,300 square miles. It is home to the nation’s largest kelp forest, one of North America’s largest sea canyons  over ten thousand feet deep, 33 species of marine mammals, 94 species of seabirds, 345 species of fishes, numerous invertebrates and plants. I consider it one of the most impressive areas in the world.  One of my most memorable experiences occurred in 1999, as I was working on a project with renowned explorer Dr. Sylvia Earle. 

Using one-person submersibles, we were treated to an underwater light show of creatures on the 4th of July that has rivaled anything I’ve experienced on land. By diving down the canyon to just over 1,100 feet, we were able to observe millions of krill. They were positioned just above the canyon’s steep sandy slope. A source of food for wildlife that lives throughout the bay, they have the ability to produce their own light using special organs located on the sides of their bodies. I sat in my tiny submersible in the dark and watched these tiny creatures blink their lights on and off, small wonders existing in such a cold dark environment.
 
 

Channel Islands

 

Often called California’s Galapagos, the Channel Islands offer rugged beauty, cultural history and diversity of both terrestrial and oceanic animals. Situated just offshore Santa Barbara and Ventura counties, the Sanctuary was designated to help protect over 1,440-square miles of ocean. It’s boundaries encompass waters surrounding the islands of Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and Santa Barbara, extending nearly six miles. What makes this sanctuary extraordinary is how the offshore waters meet the rugged slopes of the islands. If you enjoy kayaking or boating, there are hundreds of sea caves to explore, countless inlets, beaches and a number of great hikes. Located on the north side of Santa Cruz Island, Painted Cave is one of the largest sea caves in the world and well worth the trip across the channel. There are dozens of shipwrecks, submerged Chumash sites and some of the best scuba diving in California.
My favorite island is Anacapa because of the incredible water clarity and it’s smaller size. It’s also home to giant sea bass, the wreck of the Windfield Scott and Anacapa Light House. During early spring, giant coreopsis blooms atop Anacapa, covering the island in a brilliant blanket of yellow.
Although I have been lucky enough to explore deepwater areas along the coast, most of my time is spent shooting areas above the water. Big Sur, Carmel, Pacific Grove and the surface waters of Monterey Bay are very special to me and I spend a great deal of time looking for opportunities to create new images in these areas. One of the most spectacular spots is Garrapata State Park along the Big Sur Coast. Although it’s extremely scenic from the road, I would recommend getting out of the car and hiking the rugged rocky shores to experience some its splendor.

 “These moments and others like them are what I strive for as a photographer and explorer.”
 

Kip Evans is an explorer and photographer who lives on the Monterey Peninsula. Visit Mountain and Sea Gallery at the Barnyard, in Carmel CA.
Call 831-626-7788 or visit the web at:
www.mountainseagallery.com

 

For more information on the marine sanctuary program please visit
www.sanctuaries.noaa.gov