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THE HISTORY OF MONTEREY

IN MAY OF 1846, the explorer John Fremont led fellow American settlers in a revolt, proclaiming the region the ‘Bear Flag Republic.’ In July, Commodore John Drake Sloat seized the city of Monterey for the United States, and the Mexican governor surrendered to the U. S. Navy without a fight. Monterey quickly became the center of American West Coast politics. In 1849, California’s Constitutional Convention was held at Colton Hall, and the following year, California became the 31st state in the Union.

Although Monterey had served as the state’s first, temporary, capital, time and circumstance swept past it, closer to the immensely wealthy gold fields. Still, the city didn’t lose its economic clout. Whaling, the ocean-borne equivalent of the gold rush, became the city’s principal occupation. Processing plants were built in Monterey and Moss Landing, where oil and ambergris were extracted from the carcasses. Whale bones littered the beaches, whale-bone paths were laid to the front doors of whaling captains’ handsome homes. At the same time, immigrants from Europe and Asia began arriving in the area, drawn by the burgeoning fishing industry. The lighthouses at Point Piños and Point Sur showed vessels of all descriptions the safe way to Monterey’s busy harbor.

At the same time, a new sea harvest was taking over from the fading whaling industry: the netting and canning of sardines. A ‘cannery row’ sprang up on old Ocean View Avenue, and men and women of every nationality streamed into town to work on the fishing boats and in the canneries.

Inland, the ranch life had receded to the slopes of the Santa Lucia and Gabilan Mountains, and intensive farming filled every acre of level land. The farms brought forth a dazzlingly diverse array of crops in plenitude; by the 1920s, California’s year-round growing season and rich fields were legendary.

And so, all through the Depression years of the 1930s, farm families driven from their homes in Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas and Missouri by the devastating drought and ensuing dust storms chugged up and down Highway 101 in their battered Model T Fords, searching for the Golden California of their dreams. The story of the Okies’ hopeful journey, and their subsequent trials and victories, inspired John Steinbeck’s award-winning novel The Grapes of Wrath.

Would you like to see the first Mission San Carlos built by Fr. Serra in the 1770s? Or walk in gardens similar to those grown by the first generation of the Cooper family? Or climb to the verandah of a redwood-and-adobe house built by a New England merchant in 1834?
You can do all that and more, simply by following the little yellow-and-brown tile markers, set in the sidewalk, of Monterey’s Path of History. You can start this self-guided walking tour from any point along the way, but to get the most out of your time, you should begin at the Maritime Museum Visitors Center, right in Custom House Plaza. A free, 16-minute film is shown three times every hour in the State Park History Theater: it’s a great introduction to the history and sights you’ll discover on your walk. Monterey State Historic Park contains some of California’s oldest and most important buildings. The Park Service offers two guided walks that view the Robert Louis Stevenson House, Cooper-Molera Adobe, and California’s First Theater. Tours depart at 10:00 and 11:00am and 1:00 and 2:00pm; the fee is $5.

Maps of the two-mile-long Path of History trail are available at the Visitor Center (larger quantities are also available for groups), which is open from 10:00am to 5:00pm daily.

You can visit the Path’s historic buildings for free, usually between 10:00am and 4:00pm. If you wish, you can call for information in advance on (831) 649-7118.

Colton Hall and the Constitutional Congress

In 1846, soon after the American occupation of Monterey, the Reverend Walter Colton was appointed to serve as alcalde (Chief Magistrate) of the Monterey district. One of his first official acts was to design and then build a proper town hall, the first American building in California.

As Colton himself described it, the building was perfectly suited to its purposes, with schoolrooms on the lower floor and a 70’ by 30’ hall above them for public assemblies. He admitted, “It is not an edifice that would attract any attention among public buildings in the United States; but in California it is without a rival.” Especially considering that his fine building was constructed with “the slender proceeds of town lots, the labor of convicts, taxes on liquor shops and fines on gamblers.”

It was more than suitable to the 48 delegates, elected from ten districts, who came to Monterey to draft California’s state constitution. For six weeks, they met in small sessions in the schoolrooms, each session followed by debate in the hall. The issues they had to resolve were important: the eastern boundary of the state (the Sierra Nevada Mountains or the Rockies?), the location of the capital (San Jose? Sacramento?), slavery (forbidden), women’s property rights (acknowledged), and much more.

The final document was signed on October 13, 1849; on September 9, 1850, President Millard Fillmore officially welcomed California into the Union.

Artists-Colony-by-the-Sea

Not everyone came to the Peninsula to work hard or play hard. Writers, artists, musicians and theater people discovered in the still-peaceful village of Carmel-by-the-Sea the perfect spot to listen to their Muse. They were joined by a flood of newcomers in 1906, when the great earthquake left so many of their friends and colleagues homeless. A few months staying among like-minded folk led plenty of the newcomers to settle down for good, some staying in Carmel, some heading even further south to Big Sur.

They also brought their own notions of appropriate building styles: few other American towns possess such idiosyncratic homes. Local builders like M. J. Murphy created sturdy board-and-batten or shingle homes, but Hugh Comstock – influenced by the whimsical illustrations of Arthur Rackham – devised his own utterly unique ‘Fairytale Tudor’ style. These gently weathered buildings of silvery rough-hewn timber and honey-toned Carmel stone can be found hiding behind pines, bamboo and roses all around Carmel. Several walking tours are offered by Carmel Walks and the Carmel Heritage Society, well worth the time to discover buildings you’d otherwise miss.

The list of our region’s creative residents is impressive, even in a partial listing: novelists Henry Miller and John Steinbeck, poets Robinson Jeffers and Emil White, composer Harry Partch, artist Mary Austin, and photographers Ansel Adams and Edward Weston. Today, new painters, photographers, writers and musicians follow in their footsteps down the sandy sidewalks of Carmel-by-the-Sea.

A Growing Sense of History

The first farmers to till Monterey County’s fertile soil, the Esselen and Ohlone Indians, grew a kind of legume which the Spanish called garvanzos, and they gathered the pinolas, the pine kernels which the Monterey pine tree sheds in abundance. The Spanish padres added cauliflower, lettuce, and a wide variety of herbs to the gardens of their neophytes.

Visitors also brought new plants to the region; the French explorer, de la Perouse, gave Carmel Mission a supply of seed potatoes and fruit tree seedlings from Chile. And the missions gave California one of the greatest gifts imaginable: wine grapes, planted in abundance.

By the time John Steinbeck was writing about California’s agriculture, the simple crops which could be grown on rainfall alone had given way to more delicate crops that required irrigation. Delicate, of course, usually means delicious, and the lettuces grown in the Salinas Valley commanded high prices at the market. Now, many of our organic farms specialize in baby leaf lettuce mixes called mesclun – which you’re almost sure to enjoy in any good Monterey County restaurant.

Spring in Monterey by Nancy Black

Welcoming warmer temperatures and longer days, visitors, residents and even sea life are on the move around Monterey Bay. One of the most spectacular and famous of all the events in the Bay is the northward migration of the Gray Whale. Gray Whales spend the winter mating and calving in the warm lagoons of Baja California, then begin their long spring journey north to Alaska for their summer feeding season. This March, the entire population of 26,000 Gray Whales will be passing through Monterey Bay in peak numbers.

Gray whales hug the coastline on migration. Whale watching is easy through binoculars from shore or with closer looks from boats. Whales exhale at the surface and the first part of a Gray Whale sited is usually its heart-shaped white vapor spout. Then comes the gray back. These whales have no dorsal fin but instead have a distinctive ridge, which looks like a series of knuckles along the top of the tail area. Just before they sound, or dive, they often show tail flukes in a slow curve above the water. They travel out of sight less than 100’ below the surface, so the next spout can be expected in 3 to 7 minutes.

In the spring, Gray Whales are on the second half of their annual migration from feeding grounds in Alaska to calving lagoons in Mexico and then back again; one of the longest migrations of any animal on earth! They eat little or nothing on their journey. Incredibly, they are able to live off their metabolized blubber, which they replenish by feeding steadily each summer. Pregnant females are the first to leave, followed by adult males and females, juveniles and lastly, mother and calf pairs. The mothers will stay with their calves until they reach the feeding grounds in order to protect and guide the calves during the long migration.

Life and death drama is possible when Gray Whale mothers and calves pass through the Bay during April and May. They hug the coastline and are often found just outside the surf. This is a tactic to prevent detection from their predator, the Killer Whale. When they cross Monterey Bay, with its deep submarine canyon, the danger increases. Killer Whales target the calves and work as a group for many hours to overcome the Grays. Although it’s a sad struggle for the calf, feeding on a Gray Whale provides food for many Killer Whales and their calves. Killer Whales, as the top predator, are amazingly beautiful and intelligent creatures that spend all of their lives in pods comprised of family groups. Joining attacks on Gray Whales provides an opportunity for young Killer Whales to learn hunting strategies from adults. Eventually, the remains of the calf will sink to the sea floor, decompose and provide nutrients that will continue for many years the cycle of the ocean food web.

Gray Whales are not the only amazing sea life on the move. Spring, off the central California coast, begins the start of a new cycle in the oceans and renewed life in Monterey Bay. Called the “Upwelling Season,”nutrients come to the surface, allowing the sun to fuel an explosion of life in the Bay. This important vertical movement brings hundreds of species of plankton to the surface to form the base of the food chain. The result is an abundance of food for fish, seabirds, seals, sea lions, dolphins, and whales.

Springtime harkens California Sea Lions on the Monterey Breakwater to rest between feeding bouts on the abundance of fish and squid. Harbor Seals give birth to their pups in the Bay. Humpback Whales and Pacific White-Sided dolphins gather to feed on massive schools of anchovies and sardines. Dolphins, playful, curious and highly intelligent, live in tight-knit social groupings. Six species of dolphins occur in Monterey Bay, sometimes in schools of several thousand. Monterey Bay with its unique Submarine Canyon, is one of the few places in the world with such a diversity and abundance of marine life.

Condor Cruises

The Santa Barbara Channel is known as one of the best whale watching areas in the world. Giant blue whales, playful humpback whales, plus fin and minke whales, dolphins and porpoises all are in the nutrient rich waters of the Santa Barbara Channel. In all, over 27 different types of whales and dolphins inhabit these waters throughout the year, making this channel one of the prime areas for whale research and filming activities.
This population of whales and dolphins is attracted to the Santa Barbara Channel because of the abundance of krill, a small shrimp like crustacean that grows in the channel in the millions of tons. The channel is situated in an east ą west orientation unlike the rest of the west coast ą the four northern channel islands are oriented parallel to the coast. The Alaskan current ą a cold, nutrient rich current impacts the shelf on the northern coast of the islands and produces upwelling. It’s a veritable krill machine.
The undisputed star of Santa Barbara’s whale show is the giant blue whale. Measuring up to 85 ft. in length and weighing over 120 tons, the blue whale is the largest animal that has ever lived on earth╔ by a long shot. To put it in perspective, consider that the largest land animal, the African elephant, can attain a weight of about 7 tons the tongue of the blue whale is larger than an African elephant. They have a heart as big as a Volkswagen they are truly immense animals. Each of these giants will consume about 4 tons of krill daily on these feeding grounds.
Blue whales show up in the channel about mid-May and are seen daily through about mid-September. They are seen on daily island half day whale watching trips departing from the Santa Barbara Harbor.
For pure showmanship, however, nothing beats the friendly - and active humpback whale. These magnificent creatures have been delighting people from all over the world with their antics ą breaching, lob tailing, slapping their pectoral fins on the water and just plain mugging boats full of eager whale watchers. They often will come right to the boat and play to the people, hanging around and enjoying a little people-watching of their own.
Humpback whales are in the channel year ‘round, but are plentiful from May through August. They are also seen on the daily whale watching trips departing from Santa Barbara harbor.
The California Gray Whales travel through the channel on their annual migration. Each year over 20,000 animals travel southward from mid-December through mid-February, and northward with their calves from mid-February through the end of April. It’s a true spectacle of nature.
At any time of the year, several different species of dolphins and porpoises can be sighted on the channel crossing, often in pods of as many as 5,000 animals.
Sometimes we even experience the beautiful and exciting Orca, or killer whale.

by Captain Fred Benko

One of the most significant changes in the Santa Barbara Channel in the last 50 years has been the increased whale population in this area. As these animals have increased in numbers and, as more study has been focused on the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, it is now known that we have about 27 different species of whales, dolphins and porpoises that visit the channel at various times of the year. That makes the channel, and the Sanctuary, one of the very best areas in the world for viewing a diverse population of marine mammals.

Winter Whales

For most people in Santa Barbara, when they think of whales, they think of the winter migration of the California gray whales. These friendly critters migrate past the islands in January and February on their way to Baja for mating and pupping, and pass close by Santa Barbara’s shores, often within just a few feet of the beach, on their way back to Alaska to feed. One of the great and unique pleasures in Santa Barbara is sitting in a waterfront restaurant in March or April watching a cow/calf pair make their way slowly along the coastline.

When the whale watching industry in Santa Barbara began in 1973, whale enthusiasts were heartened by the fact that the gray whale herd had grown to an estimated 8300 animals quite an increase over the few hundred animals in the mid 1940’s that had survived the onslaught of decades of whaling. Today that herd is estimated to contain over 25,000 animals! It is thought that we now have as many California gray whales in the eastern Pacific as there ever were this population is now at an historical high. There is also evidence that the Korean gray whale, an identical animal that migrates down the Asiatic coast, is making a comeback. It would be great to have two healthy stocks of gray whales in the pacific basin again. Gray whales can be seen at the islands, particularly in the gap between Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa islands, during January and February. They can be seen along the coast, often almost in the surf line, during the months of March and April.

The Whales of Summer

By far the most dramatic change in whale stocks in the channel, however, has been the reappearance of large numbers of the giant blue whales and the friendly humpback whales during the summer months. These large animals, unlike the gray whales that are just traveling through, move into the channel to feed beginning in May and stay until sometime in the fall. In good years, when krill is plentiful and conditions are favorable, there may be several hundred whales in the channel at the same time. Often we can see dozens of spouts in the area surrounding the CONDOR with whales passing close by the boat on all sides. You would think that the skippers who spend a lot of time on the water might get blasÄ about these animals that they see every day during the season, but, to a man, they will report that they have never gotten over the wonder of being surrounded by these magnificent critters.
The question is why were these animals not in the channel during the 50 or so years prior to 1990? There is some evidence that they historically came into the channel to feed during the summer months but that they avoided the channel during the period from the 40’s to the 90’s. One factor that should be studied is the effect of seismic exploration for oil and the effect of these loud, concussive, seismic shocks on the delicate hearing of the great whales. We know that these animals, particularly the blue whales, communicate with long wavelength, low frequency sounds that are capable of traveling great distances, hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles. It may be that the seismic shocks are in that range and that the whales avoid areas that are not to their liking. Seismic exploration for oil in the channel stopped in the late 1980’s - the whales showed up again a few years later.
Whatever the reasons for the whale’s reappearance in the channel, we can be happy that they are back, and we can enjoy that special interaction that occurs when trusting animals approach us to let us both learn a little about the other. It is one of the most awe-inspiring occurrences in nature.

by Captain Fred Benko,

Condor Cruises

The Santa Barbara Channel is known as one of the best whale watching areas in the world. Giant blue whales, playful humpback whales, plus fin and minke whales, dolphins and porpoises all are in the nutrient rich waters of the Santa Barbara Channel. In all, over 27 different types of whales and dolphins inhabit these waters throughout the year, making this channel one of the prime areas for whale research and filming activities.

This population of whales and dolphins is attracted to the Santa Barbara Channel because of the abundance of krill, a small shrimp like crustacean that grows in the channel in the millions of tons. The channel is situated in an east ą west orientation unlike the rest of the west coast ą the four northern channel islands are oriented parallel to the coast. The Alaskan current ą a cold, nutrient rich current impacts the shelf on the northern coast of the islands and produces upwelling. It’s a veritable krill machine.

The undisputed star of Santa Barbara’s whale show is the giant blue whale. Measuring up to 85 ft. in length and weighing over 120 tons, the blue whale is the largest animal that has ever lived on earth by a long shot. To put it in perspective, consider that the largest land animal, the African elephant, can attain a weight of about 7 tons the tongue of the blue whale is larger than an African elephant. They have a heart as big as a Volkswagen they are truly immense animals. Each of these giants will consume about 4 tons of krill daily on these feeding grounds.

Blue whales show up in the channel about mid-May and are seen daily through about mid-September. They are seen on daily island half day whale watching trips departing from the Santa Barbara Harbor.
For pure showmanship, however, nothing beats the friendly - and active humpback whale. These magnificent creatures have been delighting people from all over the world with their antics ą breaching, lob tailing, slapping their pectoral fins on the water and just plain mugging boats full of eager whale watchers. They often will come right to the boat and play to the people, hanging around and enjoying a little people-watching of their own.

Humpback whales are in the channel year ‘round, but are plentiful from May through August. They are also seen on the daily whale watching trips departing from Santa Barbara harbor.
The California Gray Whales travel through the channel on their annual migration. Each year over 20,000 animals travel southward from mid-December through mid-February, and northward with their calves from mid-February through the end of April. It’s a true spectacle of nature.
At any time of the year, several different species of dolphins and porpoises can be sighted on the channel crossing, often in pods of as many as 5,000 animals. Sometimes we even experience the beautiful and exciting Orca, or killer whale.

From the early days of the Chumash Indians to the influx of the Franciscans, Santa Barbara’s architecture represents a fusion of Mediterranean, Spanish, early Californian, Mexican, Moorish and English Country design styles. Many architects have made an imprint on Santa Barbara, leaving a rich legacy of multiple cultures and designs throughout the county. Low-pitched tile roofs, porcelain plaster walls, arched facades, enclosed garden courtyards and wrought iron embellishments strewn with bougainvillea are common threads that link the city. Today, Santa Barbara fuses more of these design elements than anywhere else in the country. Major turning point in the city’s architectural design was the 1925 earthquake that razed the majority of Santa Barbara’s public and private dwellings. Following the temblor, an Architectural Board of Review was established and created stringent guidelines that are reflected in the city’s present day Spanish Mediterranean design. Today, restored 19th century adobes blend beautifully with the Mission Revival mansions of Montecito, luxurious beachfront estates and California bungalows, making Santa Barbara’s architecture one of the most recognized in the world.

RED TILE WALKING TOUR

Many of the city’s 70+ designated landmarks are enjoyed via the self-guided Red Tile Walking Tour. Encompassing a 12-block area of downtown, the tour highlights the city’s most fascinating red tile roof landmarks, including the Santa Barbara County Courthouse, Casa de la Guerra, El Paseo and Lobero Theatre. Contact the Santa Barbara County Visitors Bureau for map information.

SPANISH COLONIAL ADOBES

One of best examples of original Spanish Colonial adobe-style architecture is seen in structures that are part of the El Presidio De Santa Barbara Historic Park (1782), part of the last military outpost in California. The largest of the El Presidio buildings, The Presidio Chapel (1788), was reconstructed on its original foundations and contains 18th century-era dÄcor, including the padres’ and commandants’ quarters with authentically reproduced furniture. A 15-minute slide show and scale model of the El Presidio also gives visitors a fascinating impression of life in Old Spanish California.

Located across the street from the Presidio Chapel is Santa Barbara’s oldest adobečEl Cuartel (1788)čthe former residence of Jose Jesus Valenzuela, gatekeeper of the fort during the Mexican period.
Considered one of the most coveted remnants of Santa Barbara’s Spanish-Mexican heritage, Casa de la Guerra (1819-27), a u-shaped adobe built by Jose de la Guerra, ranks among the city’s most famous architectural landmarks. In 1923, Casa de la Guerra was remodeled and became a traditional gathering place for festival art activities. Today, it is a historic house museum reflecting the period of 1828 ą 1858 when Don Jose de la Guerra resided in the casa. Other prominent homes in this style: the Hill-Carrillo Adobe (1825-26) at 11 East Carrillo Street, Lugo Adobe (1830) at 114 East De La Guerra Street and Rochin Adobe (1856) at 820 Santa Barbara Street.

THE GRECO-ROMAN INFLUENCE

The most visited landmark in the city, Mission Santa Barbara, was founded in 1786 by the Franciscans. The “Queen of the Missions,” as it is known, was designed by architect Antonio Ripoll. This masterpiece showcases the best of Greco-Roman architecture with columns and statuary on top of the cornice. The Mission’s famed Roman sandstone facade is based on a plate in the Spanish edition of Vitruvius’ books and highlights dual bell towersčthe only California mission to have twin towers. The grand edifice stands on an elevated plateau that commands a view to the ocean, framed by the Riviera and mesa areas. Visitors can attend mass on Sundays and take a self- or docent-led tour through the Mission museum, lush gardens, courtyards, chapel and cemetery where 4,000 Chumash Indians are buried.

A MASTERPIECE IN MISSION REVIVAL

What is distinct about Santa Barbara architecture is its blend of century-old adobe houses, renowned mission churches and luscious tropical horticulture. Out of these ingredients evolved one of America’s first major regional architectural stylesčMission Revival. Since the early 1890s, Mission Revival has drawn upon the California missions for stylistic inspiration.

One of the foremost architects of this style was Arthur Page Brown. His residential works, five Crocker Row (1894-95) homes on Garden Street, highlight such design elements as ornate scalloped window detailing and pointed arched windows. One of the best-known features of Crocker Row is a 300-pound metal dog named Rover that stands guard at 2010 Garden Street. Another great architect of this design style was Francis W. Wilson. Wilson’s Southern Pacific Railroad Depot (1905), now the Amtrak station, is one of Santa Barbara’s few remaining structures in this style, located next to the historic Moreton Bay Fig Treečthe nation’s largestčon Chapala Street.

SPANISH COLONIAL REVIVAL

Many of Santa Barbara’s public and private structures were designed in the Spanish Colonial Revival style prior to the 1925 earthquake. Key examples include the Santa Barbara News-Press building, City Hall, El Paseo, Montecito Country Club and the Santa Barbara Cemetery Chapel. Following the earthquake, Spanish Revival become the predominant style of architecture and the majority of the city’s commercial downtown area  was rebuilt in this design.

The most important 20th century building in Santa Barbara, second only to the Mission Santa Barbara in overall architectural significance, is the Spanish-Moorish Santa Barbara County Courthouse (1927-29), designed by architect William Moser.

The ornate edifice is considered one of the most impressive Spanish Colonial Revival designs in the United States. The Roman triumphal arch, its most dramatic feature, provides a view of Santa Barbara foothills and leads to the central courtyard and sunken gardens. Other decorative features include the sandstone entrance, theatrical tiled staircases, ornate sculpture and open loggia corridors. Don’t miss the Mural Room on the second floor which houses a stunning life size mural of the history of Santa Barbara by Dan Sayre Grosbeck, scenic designer for Cecil B. De Mille, and the 85 ft. clock tower with panoramic views of the city.

Another testimony to Revival design and one that exudes the spirit and charm of an old world plaza is the famed El Paseo (1922-24), originally designed by architects James Osborne Craig and then Mary Craig. Visitors will delight in this charming complex where they can relax in the famed “Street in Spain” courtyard and quaint passageways, all of which partially encompass the historic De La Guerra Adobe. El Paseo became the first major step taken in converting Santa Barbara’s architecture from Anglo Main Street to Hispanic Pueblo.

Other classic examples of Spanish Colonial Revival architecture can be seen in the design of two landmarks by architect Reginald Johnson. One is the United States Post Office (1936-37), which looks more like a palace than a government building, with decorative motifs derived from the popular Modern style. The other, which typifies the acme of Santa Barbara’s gracious living, is the aristocratic Four Seasons Biltmore Resort.

Credited as being one of the most distinctive buildings in Santa Barbara, the Arlington Center for the Performing Arts (1930-31) is clearly a great monument of Spanish Colonial Revival architecture. One forerunner of this style was architect James Pluckett who, in the late 1920s, was commissioned to design a grand-style theater. The Arlington’s ornate detailing includes a magnificent spire towering above the city, a gracefully arched loggia, a mock Spanish village sketched along the interior walls and an elliptically vaulted “star-studded” ceiling that creates an illusory night sky.

No other Santa Barbara architect worked in the Spanish Colonial style more than architect George Washington Smith. Even today, his name is synonymous with this architectural style, making the city one of the most beautiful and unique in the country. Smith was primarily known for his residential designs, but also designed the oldest continuously operating theater in California: The Lobero Theatre (1924) on Canon Perdido Street. Along with architect Lutah Riggs, the duo created a graceful three-tiered cultural design using bricks from the original opera house for the adobe walls featuring a 70-foot high stagehouse.

Smith is also credited with designing the Andalusian-style Casa del Herrero (1925), an 11-acre estate in Montecito. This home has been preserved as a living museum for the display of architecture, decorative arts and an elaborate Moorish garden. Its treasures include colorful Mediterranean tile, Spanish doors and window shutters, corbels and a ceiling from a 15th century convent. A vast array of tools and silver-smithing devices can be seen in the 1,000-square foot workshop adjacent to the home. Reservations required.

Another outstanding Santa Barbara landmark is Casa Dorinda (1919). In 1916, Henry W.H. Bliss and wife Anna Dorinda Blaksley purchased 48 acres for their future residence and commissioned architect Carlton Winslow to design a Spanish Colonial style home, and one of the largest mansions in Montecito was born. Today, it is a retirement community; private tours are available.

VINTAGE VICTORIAN TO CALIFORNIA CRAFTSMAN

Santa Barbara is long known for its creative mix of bed and breakfast propertiesč15 in allčthat run the gamut from vintage Italianate to California Craftsman. Victorian architecture was also a popular style throughout the 19th century in Santa Barbara. Great stops include the The Cheshire Cat Inn, which boasts two 1894 Victorian structures, the Simpson House Inn (1874), which sports an Italianate Victorian design and the Italianate The Upham Hotel (1871-71), built for banker Amasa Lyman Lincoln. The stately two-story property is a clapboard structure with a horizontal roofline and design elements reminiscent of New England, including carved cornice pieces, brackets and cupolas.

Though Santa Barbara is a blend of many architectural styles, visitors and residents alike identify it with the cool broad patios, thick adobe walls and trademark fiery tiled roofs and floors. These attributes distinguish Santa Barbara as one of America’s great architectural cities.

Summer Brings a Sea of Life to Monterey Bay

by Nancy Black

Resident marine biologist with Monterey Bay Whale Watch

Summer began early in Monterey Bay as the largest animal on earth, the Blue Whale, arrived to feed on massive amounts of krill during May. Blue Whales are highly endangered, with only 10,000 left worldwide. However, the population that feeds off California numbers just over 2,200 and are on the increase. Blue Whales were protected off our coast in the early 70’s and now are thriving. These 90’ long and 200 ton mammoths feed only on krill, very tiny animals that are less than a half inch long. Even though their food is tiny, they feed on massive amounts by taking in tons of water with thousands of krill then squeezing the water out through their baleen. An adult Blue Whale may eat 4 tons of this krill everyday. The Blue Whales will feed off the coast until late fall when they start their migration down to the far offshore waters of Costa Rica where they spend the winter giving birth and mating.

Monterey Bay with its underwater canyon, comparable in size to the Grand Canyon, is so productive that sometimes up to 50 or more Blue Whales feed along the canyon edges in small groups spread out for several miles. Since this deep canyon approaches the coast within a half mile of shore, Monterey Bay is known as the best place in the world to view these magnificent mammals.
Not only is summer and fall an excellent time to see Blue Whales, but other whales such as Humpback Whales are sighted daily. Occasionally Fin Whales, Minke Whales, and Killer Whales venture in the Bay as well as thousands of dolphins. Humpback Whales are the acrobats of the whale world. With side flippers almost a third of their body length, they can often be seen leaping clear out of the water, long flippers twisting as they piroette back to sea. These curious whales often approach our boat appearing to check out people aboard our Monterey Bay Whale Watch boats. Otherwise they may be feeding on schools of fish and krill. The inner part of Monterey Bay offers a safe haven for Humpback Whale mothers and their calves.

If you want more information about whales or whale watching in Monterey Bay, including daily sighting reports, look at www.gowhales.com

For more information on the whales and dolphins of Monterey Bay and how to participate in whale watch trips, contact Monterey Bay Whale Watch at 1-866-469-4253 or www.gowhales.com

Mission San Luis Rey

Founded:

June 13, 1798 by Father Fermin Lasuen
“King of the Missions,” San Luis Rey was the largest and most populous of all the California missions. Its buildings covered 6 acres of land, and Native American population reached 2,700. Its important location filled the critical gap between San Diego and San Juan Capistrano. It was the ninth and last mission founded by Father-President Lasuen before his death in 1803.

Walking through the Sunken Gardens or its traditional arched colonnade, you will be transported to the past, imagining the everyday life of the Franciscan Friars and Indians who inhabited San Luis Rey centuries ago.

Mission San Luis Rey de Francia, located in Oceanside, California, is the eighteenth in a line of twenty-one California Missions. Currently operated by the Franciscan Friars of California, the mission provides both guided and self-guided tours, a museum, gift shop, Franciscan Retreat Center, and Cemetery as well as various functions and events.

Visitors are welcome to stroll through the Mission Church and surrounding grounds and to attend weekend mass.

Just a few reasons to visit Pismo Beach! From Mild to Wild…

Hummer Tours

Explore the famous sand dunes & beach “Hummer Style.” Professional drivers show you the capability of the military-inspired “Humvee.”

Amphibious Flying Boat
Experience a coastal flight along the shoreline from the Oceano Airport. Discover your wings in a two-seater ultra-light “flying boat” with an experienced professional pilot at the controls.

Bi-Plane Tours
See Pismo Beach from the sky in an Open-Air Cockpit Biplane. Suit up in a leather ”bomber” jacket, add goggles and a scarf then hit the clouds. A video will capture it on camera for you to take home. Tours available: Pier and Dunes Tours, Coast and Avila Beach Lighthouse Tours. Extreme Aerobatic Rides are also available.

Helicopter Tours
Fly in this 4-passenger state-of-the-art Eurocopter EC-120 helicopter. Tours depart from the San Luis Obispo Airport. Bring your cameras!

Live Theater
At the Great American Melodrama and Vaudeville, theatergoers are welcomed into a comfortable atmosphere of cabaret tables with sawdust on the floor and honky-tonk piano music in the air. See professional performers present top-notch productions of great classic comedies, melodramas and thrillers. Fun for the whole family!

Extreme Make-over
Construction is almost completed on Pismo Beach’s most ambitious downtown revitalization project ever. The roughly $1 million “facelift” project will give the downtown area a polished look. It will include new stamped concrete sidewalks, arched street lighting, beautiful queen palms and a new center plaza. The finished project will be the first major retrofit in the downtown area. Completion is due by Summer 2004.

Please contact the Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau for more information at 805.773.7034

Of Cottages, Castles and Country Roads and Castles by the Sea,

by Thomas Young & Maureen Tobin

As each wave crashes against the rocks and the sound reverberates in our ears, the fine salty ocean mist swirls toward us. The bright morning sun catches water particles like a magical prism sending the colors of the green-blue sea, white foamy surf and brilliant blue sky into a torrent of hues. At the same moment, a woman with wide-brimmed floppy hat captures this scene with swift stokes of her brush onto the canvas of her painting...a scene frozen on many an artist’s mind.

California’s Central Coast is an exquisite synchronization of open spaces, jagged and craggy beaches, clear azure skies, forests, sweeping pastures and small towns. With that in mind, we take you to Cambria, then to Hearst Castle in San Simeon, a beautiful drive up or down the coast. Let the journey there be part of the excursion. Train it on Amtrak, getting off at San Luis Obispo where your rental car awaits. Amtrak transports you while you lounge in roomy, sink-in seats with grand windows spreading out the unfolding scenes of cities, mountains, beaches and the inevitable slices of life. The drive from San Luis Obispo to Cambria is easy, sweet, view-laden, and a reminder of what highways and byways should feel like when you wish to wander.

What came to mind each day we celebrated our journey to Cambria and Hearst Castle was a song from the musical, Oklahoma “Oh what a beautiful morning, oh what a beautiful day. We got this wonderful feeling, everything’s going our way?”

CAMBRIA

“Where the pines meet the sea.”

Halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, but light years away emotionally and spiritually, the inviting coastal town of Cambria is old fashioned but sophisticated, an artist’s colony and a best kept secret. Think of Cambria as a concerto, with Norman Rockwell picturesque quality, prize scenery, excellent restaurants, art galleries, antique shops and residents or guests who pray that the distinctive, unhurried small-town ambiance remains just that. Instead of just passing through Cambria, stop! Spend a couple days. It is where you get revitalized and your energy is restored. Walk on Moonstone Beach and boardwalk, and view an amazing sea panorama. Just above San Simeon, thrill to the large population of elephant seals, especially the two ton males as they jockey for position amongst other males, hoping to snare females for their harem.

OLALLIEBERRY INN B&B

Visualize a picture from your favorite storybook when you enter the Olallieberry Inn, in Cambria. Their motto, “Where Friendship Begins” sets the stage of this historic home built in 1873, one of the oldest in town, on the banks of the Santa Rosa Creek. Walk through the front garden where a 120 year old redwood stands guard. This enchanting B&B is beautifully appointed and always smells of fresh baked goodies. Enjoy tea, reading, romantic talks in their rear patios and blossoming gardens. Elmer Dills loves it here. We had the “Room at the Top,” a little alcove with a king size bed, thick down quilts for the winter, lots of pillows, fireplace, rocking chair, chocolates by the pillow, with everything in shades of lavender. Get the picture? Warm, fuzzy, and romantic. The only thing missing? The innkeepers didn’t tuck us in at night. Olallieberry Inn has been awarded “Best Breakfast in America” for 2 years in a row. You are in for the most sumptuous, elegant, creative breakfasts. Visualize one of them: CrÅme Brulee French Toast?of course, olallieberry preserves are a must at every seating. Every afternoon they bake cookies for the guests and hors d’oeuvres are served. Innkeepers Marjorie Ott, Larry & Marilyn Draper truly take care of you. Their recipe book is just about to come out. To top it all off, Marilyn is also renowned for expert facials and massages. Olallieberry Inn is a place to run away to, or to be there to find yourself.

There’s not a seaside village on this planet without its fine dining and that is certainly true of Cambria, an epicurean’s dream. These two restaurants merit special notice: One is Bistro SolÄ, with a menu dubbed, Progressive American Cuisine that offers superb meals and catering. Elegant, yet like all of Cambria, relaxed, warm and cozy. The large but simply presented plates showcase delicious, beautifully prepared food. The Iowa Pork Tenderloin, a thick juicy tender, delectable chunk of meat and grilled King Salmon with its singular dill sauce, were perfectly cooked. Owners Jay and Dena Somers set the friendly, upscale tone. Enjoy California wines, many from the local vineyards. There wasn’t an iota of room for desserts, but what the heck. The pumpkin bread pudding called to us and it was soooo superb, we were rolling our eyes while we ate it. Plus, they also own the chic stopover next door, Indigo Moon, for wines, about 50 different global cheeses, picnic baskets and gourmet takeout and gifts.

Another Cambria favorite is Robin’s Restaurant, Creative & Delicious International Cuisine. This is like having dinner in your best friend’s living room. Owned by Shanny Covey for 20 years, 15 years at this location, Robin’s is also proud to present wines from the local vintners. Start with the Salmon Bisque and with one incredible sip you will know why this is one of their signature dishes. On Shanny’s suggestion, we ordered the Laksa, a Singapore Seafood Curry with mussels, scallops, clams, shrimp and fresh salmon served over angel hair pasta. Yep, it’s as good as it sounds. Even better. Thomas had the excellent Mandarin Chicken Curry, boneless pieces of chicken cooked in a spicy curry sauce served with roasted coconut, served with fresh chutney, chapata and fragrant brown rice. An international crowd feasts here and it is always crowded.

Olallieberry everything ą preserves, syrup, etc, are a staple in Cambria. We’d never hear of this until now. But once you taste from the well?The Olallieberry (Olallie is a Native American word meaning blackberry) is about 2/3 blackberry and 1/3 red raspberry. Caution, it’s addictive. Driving up to family-owned farm and country store, Linn’s Berry Farm, you will catch the sweeping, verdant lay of the land in the hills of Cambria. Every kind of jam product is grown here and packaged in Cambria, along with gifts, baskets and other foods, and they also have a lovely restaurant in town. We bought the largest jar of Olallieberry Preserves and having spooned it every time we passed our refrigerator, we’re about to reorder.

HEARST CASTLE

One of the world’s magnificent showpieces, Hearst Castle shines above the seascape in San Simeon, just a few miles north of Cambria. Maybe you have been to Hearst Castle. Come view it again through different eyes and you will fall in love with this castle above the sea all over again. Most people start with Tour #1, the Experience Tour, but we suggest trying one of the other three day tours and one evening tour for a totally different perspective, ones which take you into parts of the land and castle not seen as often. Imagine how foresighted William Randolph Hearst’s father was to acquire so much land, and think of William himself; at one time he owned this mountain of around 270,000 acres. WRH was a publishing magnate, film producer, astute politician, owner of several trophy estates, collector supreme of fine museum quality European and Mediterranean art treasures, and an authority on living like a king. Look with a jaded eye at the artwork, silver, marble, glitz, swimming pools and spectacular formal gardens. Think about how ahead of her time architect Julia Morgan was and the fact it took almost 28 years. Contemplate the grand scale with which WRH entertained guests. Nothing beats the scope of Hearst Castle. The main house, Casa Grande, has a total of 68,500 square feet, 38 bedrooms and 41 baths, in case you were wondering. Three other large guesthouses range from about 2,500 -5,350 square feet. The total square footage of the Estate is approx 110,000 feet. 41 fireplaces keep it aglow. There are 127 acres of gardens, terraces, pools and walkways. At the visitor center see the IMAX National Geographic Theater with the movie about Hearst, and explore the splendid gift shop, museum shop, food and beverage services. Dreams can become reality.