Parks & Museums
Near the south end of the Golden Gate Bridge is the restored replica of The Palace of Fine Arts designed by Bernard Maybeck for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition. The area now comprises a small park with a building housing The Exploratorium. This is a one of a kind, hands on, science museum with the operative words being hands on. It is a wonderful family destination.
To venture west will take you out towards the coast and, in Lincoln Park, The California Palace of the Legion of Honor. Here you will find one of the city's best classical art collections housed in a building designed by George Applegarth, in 1916, based on the Palais de la Legion d'Honneur in Paris. Along with Rodin's The Thinker, be sure not to miss George Segal's memorial to the victims of the WWII Holocaust. One comes upon it almost by surprise, which adds to its power.
Golden Gate Park is nearby and is the west coast version of New York's Central Park. There are numerous sights to see including lakes, gardens and museums. A hidden gem is the Japanese Tea Garden, which exudes peace and tranquility. After wandering thought the gardens, actually having tea in the Tea House will heighten the experience.
Heading back to the downtown portion of the city following the waterfront and multi-million dollar homes along Marine Drive, one comes to the Fort Mason Center. Home to several small museums including the San Francisco Craft and Folk Art Museum and the Mexican Museum, this is a wonderful area for walking and taking in the sights. A meal at Greens, one of the countries premiere vegetarian restaurants, is never disappointing (be sure and make reservations).
Attractions & Museums
Continuing on around the bay one comes to Ghirardelli Square, Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39. There is plenty to see and do in this area including catching the boat to Alcatraz, ferries to Angel Island and Sausalito and getting on a cable car, which is a true San Francisco experience and not to be missed. The Embarcadero begins on the north end of this area and continues around the bay to PacBell Park, home of the San Francisco Giants baseball team. Regardless of if you have tickets to the game or not, it is worth walking around the park and if you are there during a game there are free viewing areas beyond right field. If it happens to be mealtime you can't beat the Acme Steak House with great food and its own entrance to the ballpark.
On the way to the park be sure and walk through the newly renovated Ferry Building. This is the new permanent home to the San Francisco Farmers Market, the building houses numerous stalls showcasing the talents and products of wonderful local food, wine and garden purveyors from the bay area whether it is market day or not. On market days the goods flow out to the sidewalk areas on both the bay and street side of the building. You just can't leave empty handed.
Heading back into the downtown area from near Fisherman's Wharf, one comes to the North Beach neighborhood. The City Lights bookstore is a must stop as it has retained the atmosphere it created in the 50's when it was the center of the west coast Bohemian movement. Nearby, on the top of Telegraph Hill is Coit Memorial Tower. The inside of the tower houses several murals painted during the depression as a Public Works of Art Project. The city view from the top of the tower is spectacular.
Nob Hill is one of the highest points in this part of the city and well worth a visit. Within walking distance of each other on the hill is the Fairmont Hotel, a wonderful place to enjoy a traditional late afternoon tea. Across the street, inside the Mark Hopkins Inter-Continental Hotel, hidden away in the Room of the Dons are very impressive murals painted by Maynard Dixon and Frank Von Sloun. Commissioned in 1926, by the building's architect, Charles Peter Weeks, the panels depict the history of California including a central panel of Queen Calafia, California's namesake.
A block away is the inspiring Grace Cathedral, modeled after Notre Dame in Paris. At the front of the building one can view the only reproduction of the famous Lorenzo Ghiberti Doors of Paradise, taken from the same mold used for the entrance doors to his Baptistry in Florence. Inside the cathedral are views of stunning stained glass windows, a labyrinth to walk and if you are lucky and your timing is right, an amazing organ and choir to hear.
Center of It All
The South of Market area in San Francisco exemplifies the best of urban renewal. Now home to may of the cities best hotels and restaurants the area is also a cultural center. The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, part of the Yerba Buena Gardens, is the areas focal point and is as interesting as a building as it is as a modern art museum. Around the corner are the lesser-known Cartoon Art Museum and across the street from that the California Historical Society. All of the museums have exhibits, which change periodically, permanent collections, and interesting book and gift shops. Nearby is the Crown Point Press Gallery known internationally for the quality of its published prints created, by invitation, by well-known artists.
Take an Architectural Tour
Another manner to experience the hidden charms of San Francisco and its artistic history is by taking a self guided walking tour. The artistic accomplishments, found in public places, of the multi-talented artist Joseph Jacinto “Jo” Mora (1876-1947) can be found throughout the western United States, but in downtown San Francisco, his work provides a perfect means of both seeing the city and learning of some of its secrets. This tour provides an opportunity to put a name to the architectural adornments that people often walk by without giving much thought to.
By starting at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel on Nob Hill this walk takes one downhill which, in San Francisco, can make all the difference in having an easy, enjoyable time or not. The Ritz Carlton Hotel, at 600 Stockton Street, is formerly the Metropolitan Life Insurance Building. Mora, along with Haig Patigian, created the heroic pediment panel on the front of the building in 1920. The seven allegorical figures, made of glazed terra cotta, surround the central female figure that holds a globe and the insurance firm's symbol.
From the Ritz, walk downhill on Stockton to Bush and turn left. As you walk down Bush it is hard not to pass up wandering through Chinatown so keep it in mind for after your tour. At 550 Bush you will see the former location of the Vickery, Atkins & Torrey Gallery where Mora exhibited his work in 1913. Further down the street at 350 Bush, is the old State Chamber of Commerce Building, formerly the San Francisco Curb Exchange. The panel in the top pediment is the work of Mora's completed in 1921. The figures represented symbolize land, sea, hunting, gathering and agriculture in the golden state.
For a change of scenery, walk down Montgomery one block to Sutter and turn right to go back up the street. At 750 Sutter you will find the Canterbury Hotel, current and original home to a number of murals painted by Jo Mora. Commissioned by the founder of the hotel, the murals were on loan to Holy Names College in Oakland for a number of years only to recently be returned to their place of origin. Feel free to walk the downstairs halls of the hotel and view these enchanting paintings depicting scenes from Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. Also on display are prints of some of Mora's whimsical maps that he created later in his career. Next, backtrack a half a block to Taylor and go downhill one block. On the left will be the, sorry to say, private Bohemian Club. Mora was a member of the club and they have a number of his pieces in their collection. What is available for the public to view is a touching memorial, by Mora, to the writer Bret Harte that depicts several of the characters from Harte's stories. The bronze plaque, dedicated in 1919, is located on the Post Street corner of the brick building.
Continue down Post to Mason, turn right and walk to the middle of the block. On the north side of the street is the historic Native Sons of the Golden West Building (now also a theatre). From across the street (watch the driveways in back of you) you can see several terra cotta panels that depict eras of the history of California. A closer view will show medallions, which feature famous figures in the history of California. This work was undertaken by Mora with his father Domingo, who was also a sculptor, in 1911.
The next street down the block is Geary and three blocks to the left, on the right, is Macys ą formerly the location of Jo Mora's studio ą this is certainly one of the more striking changes in the city's architecture - it's hard to picture a humble building housing an artist's studio on this site. Other work by Mora can be found throughout the city and the bay area. Currently the best locating guide is a glove compartment style map entitled Jo Mora Sculpture and Art published by the Monterey Museum of Art in Monterey, California.
Whether you travel by automobile, boat, cable car or on foot, the city of San Francisco has something that can engage everyone's interest. Review your interests, plan your day and have a great time discovering a wonderful city.
Peter Hiller is an educator, curator, writer and former sidewalk historian in the city of San Francisco. Recently, he helped create two exhibits on Jo J. Mora which ran concurrently at the Maritime Museum in Monterey and at the National Steinbeck Center in Salinas.
Peter Hiller can be contacted at:
Blackhawk Auto Museum
An understanding of, art, technology, culture and history come together at this unique location, the Blackhawk Museum, housing one of the largest collections of its kind. Two spacious Auto Galleries display about 90 historically significant and artistically inspired automobiles?č mostly one-of-a-kind dating from the turn of the century. The exhibition is on-going.
Docent-led tours of the automobile and changing exhibitions on Saturday and Sunday at 2pm by trained docents provide guided public tours. Tours last an hour and are free with paid admission. Wheelchair-accessible and wheelchairs available for use.
The Museum is located an hour southeast of San Francisco in Danville, California (just south of Walnut Creek on Interstate 680, the facility encompasses nearly 70,000 square feet with four exhibition galleries, an Automotive Reference Library& Museum Store, Special Events Area, Board Room and state-of-the-art catering kitchen.
Open to the public on Wednesday - Sunday, 10am - 5pm (open most major holidays except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day) and open on Monday, if the holiday falls on Monday or the weekend. Admission includes discounts for students with ID and seniors 65 & older. Free for children 6 and under accompanied by a paid adult. Group tour information and rates, please call 925.736.2277, extension 236.
The Filoli Garden Shop
Filoli is open Tuesday through Saturday, from February 10 to October 30, 2004, between the hours of 10:00 am and 3:30 pm (last admission is at 2:30 pm); closed on Sunday and Monday. Filoli is closed in observance of all Federal Holidays.
Admission fees are $10 per adult, $5 per student (with valid ID) and $1 for children ages 7-12. Children under 7 are free. Admission includes self-guided tours, guided tours, and nature hikes. Filoli is wheelchair accessible in both the house and gardens; however, wheelchairs are not available for rental. Please inquire at the Tour Office for a map outlining the best tour route for wheelchairs.
Guided tours are available, by reservation, Tuesday through Saturday. This is a two-hour tour led by a Docent through both the house and gardens. Call 650/364-8300 ext. 507 for tour times. Self-guided tours take place Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00 am with last admission at 2:30 pm. No reservations are required. A map is available for your self-guided tour and volunteers are posted in both the house and garden to answer questions. There is also a continuous 10 minute video on the history of Filoli in the Visitor and Education Center. Guided Nature Hikes are available, by reservation, on Saturdays at 10:00 am. The hike covers roughly 3 miles of trails and takes approximately 2 1/2 hours. Nature Docents describe wildlife, plants, endangered species and the historical background of the area. Visitors may not hike without a Docent.
To contact the Tour Office, please call 650/364-8300 ext. 507 Monday through Saturday, 9:00 am-3:00 pm or fax 650/367-0724.
The Filoli Garden Shop is open 10:00 am-3:30 pm. The gift shop has a wonderful array of beautiful items for the home and garden.Filoli also has an extensive selection of gardening books and cookbooks. Stop in to look around after your tour.
Muir Woods
Muir Woods canyon is a place to walk and enjoy the forest. The primary trails along the canyon floor are level and paved. Bridges along Redwood Creek create leisurely 1/2 hour, 1 hour, or 1 1/2 hour loops. All of these walks take you on a journey beneath 1000 year old old-growth coast redwood trees.
Muir Woods is visited by over 1 million people each year. Visitation is highest in summer months; park staff recommends visiting on weekdays, before 10am or after 4pm to avoid the crowds. The redwood forest is usually cool. Jackets, layered clothing, and walking shoes are advised. Picnicking is not allowed in Muir Woods, but there are picnic facilities nearby at Muir Beach
Muir Beach Overlook
To protect the redwoods William Kent and his wife Elizabeth Thacher Kent donated 295 acres of the land to the Federal Government and in 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt declared it a national monument. Roosevelt suggested naming the area after Kent, but Kent wanted it named for conservationist John Muir.
In May 19, 1945, delegates from all over the world met in the spring to draft and sign the Charter of the United Nations. President Franklin D. Roosevelt died on April 12, 1945, shortly before he was to have opened the United Nations Conference. On May 19, the delegates held a commemorative ceremony in tribute to his memory in Muir Woods’ Cathedral Grove, where a dedication plaque was placed in his honor.
Point Reyes
Point Reyes National Seashore's spectacularly scenic panorama of thunderous ocean breakers, open grasslands, bushy hillsides and forested ridges is a wonder with 37 species of native land mammals and another 12 species of marine mammals. Isolated from the mainland following the famous St. Andeas faultline, its biological diversity stems from a favorable location and the natural occurrence of many distinct habitats. Nearly 20% of the State’s flowering plant species are represented on the peninsula and over 45% of the bird species in North America have been sighted. The Point Reyes National Seashore was so established by President John F. Kennedy, on September 13, 1962 to preserve and protect wilderness, natural ecosystems, and cultural resources along the diminishing undeveloped coastline of the western United States.
Located just an hour’s drive from the densely populated metropolitan area, the Seashore is a sanctuary for myriad plant and animal species and for the human spirit for discovery, inspiration, solitude, and recreation and exists as a reminder of the human connection to the land.
Art In Public Places by Peter Hiller
San Francisco is a city rich in art museums and quality art galleries. The numerous art offerings in the city’s various neighborhoods are not limited, however, to these traditional art exhibition spaces. Art can be found in other venues including parks, hotels, office buildings and on the street. The art ranges from the grandiose to the smallest details of building adornments.
To fully appreciate what San Francisco has to offer in enjoying it’s art, one need only take the time to wander it’s streets, be willing to open some doors, look high and low, and participate in the thrill of discovery.
The evolution of the Embarcadero since the damage from the Loma Prieta earthquake has opened up the waterfront in a glorious manner. It is surely no coincidence the new sculpture by Claus Oldenberg and Coosje Van Bruggen entitled Cupids Span, 2003 would not only be found in this walking park along the waterfront but that it would tie in with the familiar city song ‘I Left My Heart in San Francisco’ and be in the shadow of the span that is the Bay Bridge.
Lincoln Park is home to a sculpture that stops one in their tracks. The Holocaust Memorial, 1984 by George Segal, is found over a wall or around a corner depending on the approach, in either case coming upon it by surprise adds to it’s impact. It is overwhelmingly powerful in its simplicity, communicating a reminder in a small space. While in the park be sure to visit The California Palace of the Legion of Honor, one of San Francisco’s classic museums.
Other parks rich in art are both Golden Gate and Washington Square in North Beach. Sculptures are found throughout Golden Gate Park and in particular around the M. H. de Young Museum where work by Douglas Tilden, Ernest Reitschel, Thomas Shields-Clarke and Jo Mora can be found. In Washington Square one may be surprised to see a sculpture of Benjamin Franklin as the focal point of the park. In addition, is a touching piece by Haig Patigian, placed in 1933, in honor of volunteer firefighters, a gift to the city from Lillie Hitchcock Coit. Across the street is a small pond with a bronze of a man drinking water by M. Earl Cummings created in 1905.
The area around Yerba Buena Gardens is a mecca for interesting contemporary art. In the lawn area is a sculpted circle, Oche Wat Te Ou ą Reflections, 1993, in which to sit and reflect ą is designed by Jaune Quick-to-See Smith and James Luna. Nearby is Terry Allen’s Shaking Man, 1993, that appears from a distance to be anything but shaking ą it requires closer inspection and most likely will illicit a laugh.
Walking northeast towards Third and Howard provides an opportunity to see The Pneumatic Dreamer by Michael Stutz on the outside 4th floor terrace of the W Hotel. On another corner is the colorful Three Dancing Figures, 1989, by Keith Haring. Nearly across the street in a courtyard are sculptures by well known contemporary artists Jim Dine and Stephen De Staebler.
In a city of first class hotels it comes as no surprise that some would extend their finery to include art collections. The elegant Four Seasons Hotel has gone so far as to have published a guide to their collection for persons interested in a self guided walking tour of their paintings, sculptures and prints that are largely contemporary in style. The guide also includes names and addresses of some of San Francisco’s finest contemporary art galleries most of which are within walking distance of the perfectly located hotel.
California murals created by Maynard Dixon and John Van Sloun in 1926 can be viewed in the “Room of the Dons” in the Inter-Continental Mark Hopkins Hotel. The murals were actually painted in the spaciousness of the Palace of Fine Arts and then moved to their intended destination. These noted artists were able to compromise their visions of the history of California, including a large visual depiction of the mythological Queen Califia, into a large singular work that reflects the style of both of them.
While in this neighborhood it is worth the short walk to Grace Cathedral. In addition to the building itself, built in the French Gothic style by Lewis Hobart, one will find the first reproduction of the famous Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378-1455) doors, The Gates of Paradise, taken from molds of the original doors found at the entrance doors to the Baptistry of the Cathedral of St. John in Florence, Italy. Inside the cathedral are views of stunning stained glass windows, and wonderful painted murals by both Antonio Sotomayor and John DeRosen that depict aspects of Episcopalian religious history and scenes of the history of California and San Francisco. Also found here is an example of the sculptural work of Beniamino Bufano, his St. Francis statue.
On the top of Telegraph Hill is another gift to the city by Lillie Hitchcock Coit - Coit Tower. The inside of the tower houses numerous murals, commissioned by the U.S. Government and painted during the depression as a Public Works of Art Project (PWAP). Inspired by Dr. Walter Heil, Director of the Legion of Honor Museum, the murals feature the artistic work of 25 artists, including Maxine Albro, Clifford Wight and Jose Moya del Pino, and assistants whose subject matter focused on socially relevant themes. The city view from the top of the tower is spectacular. Don’t miss the impressive bronze of Christopher Columbus near the front entrance to the tower.
Near Union Square the Bohemian Club building features the creative efforts of three different historic local artists: Haig Patigian, Jo Mora, and Carlo Taliabue. They each contributed their art to the various decorative elements on the exterior of the building.
In stark contrast to the formal art found on the Bohemian Club, one cannot help but be amazed by the inspiration of Brian Goggin’s Defenestration installation at Howard and 6th Street. Brian has taken the literal definition of defenestration and brought it to a stand still in time, freezing the act of throwing objects out of windows for all to see.
Just down 6th Street is one of Rigo’s, aka: Ricardo Gouveia, urban murals Innercity-Home, 1994. His visual juxtaposition of the familiar shapes of road signs with his own version of the appropriate text gives viewers pause to think.
Wandering in and out of the office buildings in the redeveloped lower SoMa area provides the opportunity for numerous art discoveries. The 101 building on 2nd Street offers two spectacular pieces in its lobby Summer, 1999, by Larry Bell and the brightly colored Core, 1999, by Charles Arnoldi. These large-scale pieces look great together and offer insight into the lesser-known work of each of these accomplished artists. The sister building at 55 2nd Street is also worth walking through. One is first struck by two large paintings by Sol Lewitt and then entertained by work created by John Bonick.╩ At the entrance to the buildings Public Open Space, open each weekday for city dwellers to come and relax in is an oil on wood painting entitled Waterfall Series, 1990 by Joe Goode. This abstract painting is a perfect introduction to this indoor urban park.
Around the corner at 560 Mission is the JP Morgan Chase Building. In the lobby is a wonderful vinyl-and-felt banner designed by Roy Lichtenstein. Out in the courtyard is George Rickey’s Annual Eclipse, 1999-2000, which subtly moves with the wind. Nearby at 49 Stevenson is another unexpected sculpture, Escalieta I, 1987 by Bay Area Figurative School member Manuel Neri.
With the patron Saint of San Francisco being St. Francis of Assisi, it is fitting that animals would be a strong theme in the work of one of San Francisco’s pre-eminent artists ą Italian born - Bufano. Several of his animal sculptures can currently be found in the courtyard of The Cannery at Del Monte Square. Beniamino Bufano (1898-1970) and his good friend and apprentice, Victor ‘Trader Vic’ Bergeron created these stone carvings which add greatly to the cozy atmosphere of the shopping area.
One nearby non-art museum merits mention. The National Maritime Museum, once a bathhouse, is an unlikely sight of two WPA projects. Hilaire Hiler, who was in charge of the artists working on the building, painted the interior undersea murals in 1939. Sargent Claude Johnson, one of the few blacks artists on the WPA payroll, created the wonderfully intriguing carvings on the front exterior. The apolitical subject matter found here is in stark contrast to the majority of socially relevant art created by WPA artists such as what is seen in Coit Tower.
Continuing west towards the Golden Gate Bridge and taking a short walk out the jetty at the end of Yacht Road brings one to Peter Richard’s Wave Organ, 1986. Although intended primarily as a sound experience, which can’t help but bring laughter to its listeners, it is truly a site-specific sculpture that evokes thoughts of ancient civilizations and the rubble from past local tragedies. It is definitely worth the short walk.
On the 15th floor roof garden at 343 Sansome St. is Joan Brown’s Four Seasons Obelisk, 1990. This public space provides a great view and is what searching out art in unexpected places is all about. Another hidden treasure can be found in The City Club of San Francisco that houses a breath taking fresco by the famous Mexican muralist, Diego Rivera ą Riches of California, 1931. The work is available for public viewing each weekday afternoon from 3:00 to 5:00 on the 10th floor at 155 Sansome Street in the financial district.
The Mission neighborhood of San Francisco is rich in murals created in the spirit of past muralists like Rivera. One example is the Women’s Building on 18th Street. This two-story work of art on two sides of the building is overwhelming in its complexity and scope, requiring a considerable amount of time on the part of the viewer to see the entire mural. An invaluable resource in the area is the Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center 92981 24th Street at Harrison (415-285-2287). They provide walking tours of many of the murals in the area.
The Civic Center area unveils numerous works of significant art. Found outside the Davies Symphony Hall are sculptures by Henry Moore ą Reclining Figure in Four Pieces, 1973 and Balanced. Unbalanced T, by Fletcher Benton, 1981. Just up Van Ness is Hiro II by Peter Voulkos an example of his bronze work that is largely overshadowed by his work in clay.
Walking through City Hall is humbling in relation to its scale, the rotunda is truly overwhelming. One of the modest works of art is a bust of Mayor James D. Phelan (1915-1921) who was a noted patron of the arts and responsible for much of the historic art found in San Francisco. Tours are available each weekday. Across the plaza are two sculptures wonderfully contrasting in their style ą Annular Eclipse by George Rickey, 1999-2000 and nearby the Pioneers Monument, 1894, by Frank Happersberger (1859-1932).
Walking the streets of downtown presents other unexpected surprises including the bases of the light standards found on many streets. Designed by Arthur Putnam in 1908, these often-unnoticed bas-relief entitled ‘The Winning of the West’ are lovingly cared for after almost 100 years and many coats of paint.
The corner of Post and Montgomery provides examples of the tiny to grand. Around the doors on the Wells Fargo building is a parade of small animals in a bronze frieze whereas catty corner is the Lotta Fountain, a gift of Lotta Crabtree to the city in 1875. The fountain survived the 1906 earthquake and served as a meeting place for town citizens during the recovery period.
The San Francisco International Airport is another example of a non-traditional art exhibit venue. The various terminals are rich in displays by world-renowned artists but that’s a story for another issue.
Peter Hiller is an historian, teacher, archivist and city guide, and when he isn’t creating or teaching art, he enjoys finding and photographing it.
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parking at either end of the bridge, one can walk the bridge, be completely exposed to the elements of the day's weather and enjoy a spectacular view of San Francisco when on the east side of the bridge.