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Wine Country Chocolate

We were on a quest to explore. Our goal was to experience Napa and Sonoma’s agriculture, culture, cuisine, and innovative spa practices using products drawn from the vineyards. The Chocolatier is the Winemaker of Cocoa.

Our first evening we attended a seminar conducted by the famous French chocolatier, Michel Richart at Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food & The Arts. The topic was chocolate and wine pairing. RIchart was an engaging and facile teacher.

Making fine chocolate is very much like producing wine and other agricultural products. The source of the beans, soil, climate, farming, fermentation, and blending processes all have a profound impact on the finished product. Richart drew the apt analogy “the chocolatier is the winemaker of cocoa.” Sugar is used like a spice, in very small amounts to develop the chocolate’s aromas, without overwhelming the flavor.

The proof of course, was in the chocolate, and we were up to the task of tasting. We palate traveled through three distinct lines of chocolate: Ultra-Fines which are single varieties made with beans from different origins, in different degrees of intensity; Petits Richart 49 different filled chocolates from seven distinct flavor families - balsamic, fruity, herbal, spiced, roasted, citrus, and floral; and the Fall 2004 Special Collection from the families of pear, chestnut and walnut.
At times the pairings were surprising and confusing. Some were great marriages, and others were grounds for divorce. Then Michel Richart gave us the recipe for happiness. He suggested that when one attempts to match wine and chocolate, pair aromas with like aromas, and like any food and wine pairing, more often than not, you will be met with success
An “I Love Lucy” Moment in the Vineyards
The next day we got a 7:00 a.m. start to join our assigned viticultural and winemaking team at the St SupÄry Harvest Adventure. Still not quite awake, we took a quiet drive up the valley and were greeted by the vision of a Macy’s like parade of hot air balloons gracefully floating down the valley. It was one of those whimsical moments dreams are made of.

Our day at St. SupÄry transformed us from visitors, to participants in the Napa Valley agricultural community. We began by meeting with the winemaker and viticulturist to map out a plan of action. Beginning in the vineyards, we hand harvested grapes. We had it easy compared to the workers who harvest tons in a day.

Next we engaged in a practice which the BATF and Health Departments do not generally condone - crushing the grapes with our feet. It was an “I Love Lucy” moment.
We headed into the winery to review winemaking practices, focusing on the different options for working with white and red wine varietals, and various choices of yeast, barrels, and tanks which we could use to influence the character of the finished wine.

The most thrilling part of the course had arrived. We were invited to individually blend our own wine and were given four varietals to work with. The enthusiasm in the room was palpable. After we finished creating our own label designs and bottling, we celebrated with a delicious lunch served on the lawn near the vineyards, artfullyprepared by Chef Ron Barber.

A beautiful winding country drive took us through the mountains from Napa to Sonoma. The hotel and spa at MacArthrur Place was the perfect locale for a respite after our long day as winemakers. The grapeseed oil bath, body polish and massage was an ideal way to rest tired but happy bodies. We relaxed on the screened dining area for a steak and shrimp dinner - one of the specialties at their restaurant, Saddles.

The next day, early morning light was an excellent backdrop to explore the beautiful property which had once been a 300 acre vineyard and ranch, where prized trotter horses had been used for transportation in the horse & buggy era. The layout of the property was conducive to both privacy and socializing. We met a fascinating couple who were there on one of their regular visits from San Francisco. He is a poet, she is a jazz singer. We shared thoughts about a wide range of topics.

Bliss at The Farimont Sonoma Mission Inn

More bliss was ahead as we began our stay the The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa. We met people who traveled there repeatedly to spend the weekend taking unique classes like water yoga, and to select from the extensive spa services offered. The products used are from Napa Valley Spa Products - all are high in antioxidants and vitamins C & E. Thoroughly relaxed, we enjoyed a fabulous prix fixe dinner at SantÄ which overlooks a beautiful lighted pool area at the Fairmont.

The next morning, we took a leisurely drive through vineyards on our way to The Carneros Inn. The Hilltop Restaurant has spectacular views of surrounding vineyards. Cattle and horses happily coexisting amidst the maturing vines. We had a marvelous lunch which began with wines from Carneros. The Domaine Carneros Brut RosÄ NV Sparkling Wine was an ideal match for the Tasting Trio of Sonoma Coast Artisan Cheeses with a Thyme Infused Dried Apricot Compote.

Inspired by the clear skies and rolling hills, we decided to take a walk which had been suggested by the friendly and engaging concierge. What a thrill to follow the country roads and come up upon famous vineyards like Beckstoffer. We were on our own version of an historic walking trail.

A Contemporary Evening at An Historic Opera House

That evening we were thrilled to have the opportunity to attend a unique and timely event at the newly restored Napa Opera House. The speaker was Mark Danner, a writer for the New Yorker who studies and writes about foreign affairs and American politics. His presentation was fascinating, and the discussion intelligent, thoughtful and incisive. Fatefully, Mark was staying at the inn as well. What ensued was a small spontaneous dinner party at the Boonfly Cafe, and a very lively and stimulating conversation about the issues of the day. The events at the Napa Opera house are known for inspiring this type of impromptu gathering.

Napa Olive Oil

Our last day was dedicated to learning about the art of olive oil production at Round Pond. The MacDonnel’s were established as grape growers when they began experimenting with olives from 100 year old Spanish trees on their property. They embarked on a journey to research Italian and Spanish olive varietals and select those ideally suited for the soil and micro climates on their ranch.

It is fascinating how similar the farming of olives is to that of wine grapes. The time of harvest, the style of pressing, and the art of blending all parallel that of winemaking. Like wine, it is very revealing to do a blind tasting. We were willing participants. Then, we tried the same oils with bread, fresh mozzarella, and estate tomatoes. The high tech tasting room and olive press area were surrounded by glass which allowed us to view the olive groves. Jazz music playing in the background offered an inviting auditory back drop to our wonderful sensory experience.

We paused in Yountville at Bistro Jeanty for one of the most delicious tomato soups imaginable. It was covered in puff pastry - rich and light at the same time. As we began our drive towards the California coast we admired another spectacular sunset ahead, and behind in the rear view mirror of our car, and of our minds.

A magenta tint to the sky back-lit the travels of a family of ducks traversing the Napa River. Guests at the Inn at Milliken Creek observed the flurry while relaxing in comfortable leather armchairs arranged around a table with a delicious selection of artisan cheeses and wine from the region. The conversations were as diverse and fascinating as the guests. Ideas were exchanged about places to dine, wineries to visit, and unique experiences off the beaten track in Napa.

There was a special concert planned at Copia that night with Maria Muldar singing Peggy Lee, a jazz, blues legend whose career spanned five decades. This is among the type of great entertainment choices one gets to make when visiting the area.

The next day began with a visit to the Spa at Milliken Creek. The decor is a fascinating combination of eastern and western cultures converging, reminiscent of the aura in Istanbul. The result is a lovely atmosphere where one has the desire to linger before and following innovative spa treatments which can be selected from a menu, or custom designed. As an interesting aside, it was later revealed that Lisa, the co-owner had lived in many places around the world, when her father was a diplomat. One of those places was Istanbul.

In theme with international influences, one of the newest wineries in Napa is Darioush, located on the Silverado Trail. The owner, Darioush Khaledi, grew up in the Shiraz wine region. Not surprisingly, their signature wine is Shiraz, otherwise known as Syrah. The architecture of the winery and tasting room make it easy to imagine that you are in Persia, without needing a passport to get there.

Many people are drawn to the Niebaum-Coppola Winery out of admiration for it's film industry owner, Francis Ford Coppola. Upon arriving, one learns the rich history of Niebaum, an immigrant who fulfilled his dream of opening the winery in 1880, and Coppola, also of immigrant background who purchased the winery in 1975 to ensure that it would remain true to it's roots. Today, there is a broad selection of wines to fulfill a variety of palates and price ranges. The grounds are beautiful, and very reminiscent of both men's European roots.

Dining in the Napa area is delightful. Dinner at Stomp in Calistoga was the quintessential wine country dining experience. The chef prepared a remarkable tasting menu with a different glass of wine thoughtfully selected to accompany the course it was paired with. The starting course was a glass of local sparkling wine served with three different oysters, each garnished with a separate caviar and light sauce, one of which was wasabi. The tart layered with Persimmon & Pt. Reyes Blue Cheese, served with a local late harvest wine was fabulous. The ambiance and staff at Stomp are outstanding. Calistoga is also the setting of a variety of spas and inns which offer pools and private baths supplied with mineral water from the natural hot springs of Calistoga.

The Central Coast Tour

A leisurely drive from Napa down the California coast leads to Avila in the San Luis Obispo area, another area well known for it's natural hot mineral springs and excellent wineries. Sycamore Mineral Springs resort is located in Avila Canyon, just minutes from Avila Beach. The resort offers rooms and suites with fireplaces and decks, each one with its own private hot tub which the guest fills according to personal taste with hot mineral water and natural cold spring water.

Room service is available, so if the relaxation factor becomes greater than your desire to walk to the restaurant on property, you may enjoy fine dining on your own deck or by the fireplace. The chef has an impressive background. He traded a great job at Bimbo's in San Francisco, for an opportunity to live on the Central Coast and have free rein to create innovative and healthy cuisine.

The wine list at Sycamore has an impressive selection of excellent local wines. One of the featured wineries was Ortman Family Vineyard. Chuck Ortman founded Merdican Winery which is known worldwide. He recently decided to scale down, sold Meridian, and began a small winery with the next generation of his family.

Family run wineries, and those started by friends with a passion for winemaking are typical in the San Luis Obispo/ Edna Valley / Paso Robles wine regions. Wine maps available at the hotel and on web sites make it easy to plan part of a day exploring.

Tolosa Winery is the newest to open in the Edna Valley, yet their roots go back centuries, when Mission San Luis Obispo De Tolosa established the first vineyard in the Edna Valley. Rootstock and experts from Bordeaux were brought in to share their expertise in viticulture and winemaking. A visit to the Tolosa tasting room is a journey into the past, and the relaxed sophistication of the present.

A day of wine tasting maybe happily followed by a visit to the beautiful spa at Sycamore which features a selection of unique treatments combining East-West influences. Yoga classes are offered in a beautiful dome shaped building in a dreamy setting. An outdoor pool-sized spa with a warm waterfall can be reserved for private soaking and swimming during your stay.

A visit to these beautiful coastal and inland regions affirms why California offers both a way of life, and a state of mind.

Leslie Gainer is the owner of Fermentations© which offers wine & gourmet food tasting along with gifts and home accessories for the wine country lifestyle. Fermentations is open from 10 am to 10 pm daily and is located at 4056 Burton Drive ź Cambria ź 800-446-7505 ź www.fermentations.com

Calistoga’s Camelot

by Jennifer Liss

Historical saga of an early
Napa Valley pioneer

Debbie O’Gorman picks up a butter knife from the communal, elegant dining table at her Hillcrest Bed and Breakfast in Calistoga. As far as eating utensils are concerned, this is one special butter knife. Dating back to 1890, the knife’s handle is inscribed with the name “Alfred” for Alfred Tubbs, the senator, entrepreneurial genius, original owner of the famous Chateau Montelena vineyard in Calistoga, and Debbie’s great-great grandfather. On the remaining 36 acres of the original 3,000 Tubbs-owned estate at the base of Mt. St. Helena, Debbie’s home and bed and breakfast, through objects such as the prohibition-era wicker kegs and one hundred and twenty year old butter knives, tell the story of one of the most influential nineteenth century families in Northern California.

THE SUCCESS OF ALFRED TUBBS

An 1889 sketch of Alfred Tubbs depicts a focused, handsome man with a confident and open gaze, in a full, trim white beard stylishly typical of his day. Alfred Tubbs arrived in San Francisco from New England on July 21, 1850. Within six years, Tubbs and his brother Hiriam launched the Tubbs Cordage Company, the first rope manufacturer in the West. Located at the intersection of Iowa and 22nd Streets on Potrero Hill in San Francisco, the opening of the company marked a crucial point in San Francisco’s transformation as a wild and lawless Western city into an important industrial and urban center. Tubb’s success in the rope business was just the beginning. In 1865 he was elected to the state senate where he served for a full term and then graciously turned down the invitation to run again. He played a key leadership role in several California benchmark institutions, from Stanford to the Fireman’s Fund to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company.

“First Alfred fell in love with the town of San Francisco,” Debbie explains, “and then soon Alfred fell in love with drinking wine with integrity.”

Alfred’s love of good wine and his entrepreneurial creativity and instinct led him to the undeveloped Calistoga regionwhere he opened the unique Chateau Montelena. The vineyard would earn its place as one of the best in the valley. He died in his San Francisco apartment at the Palace Hotel on December 26, 1896.

THE CREATION OF CHATEAU MONTELENA AND THE HILLCREST HOUSE

Chateau Montelena was one of two Calistoga landmarks built under Tubb’s supervision. Guests traveled from San Francisco to attend grand storybook parties at the 32-room, 7-fireplace Hillcrest House, Tubb’s summer home and later the primary residence of his socialite and spunky son Willy Bray. Hardly practical for modern living, the Hillcrest House stayed in the Tubbs family until 1959 when Debbie’s mother sold it for $25,000, a sad quarter of what it cost to build it in 1880. The home with a lavish and festival reputation burned to the ground in a 1964 fire. A Napa Register newspaper photo from 1958 shows a five year-old Debbie in a blonde ponytail watching her mother shoot pool in the old mansion. “My brothers and friends and I had wild times in the big house. I can still smell the darkness of it,” she says.

A few years after starting construction on the Hillcrest House, Tubbs selected the site for his winery on what is now know as Tubbs Lane in the peaceful and popular Calistoga Valley. The second half of the nineteenth century gave birth to the resort era in California. Beginning in the late 1850s vacation spas became fashionable for wealthy San Francisco families, with White Sulphur Springs opening as the first Calistoga spa in 1855. The first steam train traveled into Calistoga in 1869.

Using French-imported cuttings that thrived in the valley’s well-drained, stony, and loose soil, Tubbs created a legendary vineyard. He imported a French winemaker. He used local help to build the stone Chateau in French style. He arranged for stained glass and wood to be brought around the horn. The front of the winery was built North-facing, in shadow, and the rest of the structure was literally built into a hill. With solid rock exterior and a deep cavernous cellar, the Chateau took four years to build. The fall of 1888 brought the first harvest and earned the Chateau statewide recognition as of the finest buildings of its type in nineteenth century California.

THE PROHIBITION YEARS

Prohibition, beginning in 1919 and ending in 1933, essentially derailed the California wine industry. Only 160 of California’s 700 vineyards survived prohibition. The devastating impact of both prohibition and the depression took its toll on Chateau Montelena as well. The vineyard passed into several different hands, prune trees were planted, and the Tubbs family fought alongside fellow winemakers to repeal prohibition. A photo of Chapin Tubbs’s electric car from the early 1930s shows bold “Repeal” stickers on the bumper sandwiching a “Tubbs” plaque. Even after the repeal, the wine industry was in shambles, and for close to thirty years the Chateau went into a virtual hibernation.

During that time Yort and Jeanie Frank, a retired Chinese-American couple from Southern California, purchased the Chateau. The Franks were realizing their dream of castle living. They even attempted to build a moat around the Chateau, but encountered a layer of impenetrable bedrock. The moat morphed into Jade Lake that still exists today, lined with yellow and white irises. The style of the Franks, including a bocce ball court, outdoor knight statues, and some Asian decoration and furniture, provide even more history to the Chateau legacy today.

THE REBIRTH OF THE CHATEAU

In 1972 James Barrett purchased the non-operational vineyard and breathed new life into the 120-acre estate that now produces 30,000 cases of award-winning wine each year. At a revolutionary formal wine tasting organized by Englishman Steven Spurrier in 1976 at the Inter-Continental Hotel in Paris, a Chateau Montelena chardonnay helped put California back on the map of quality wine. The wine world gasped as nine exclusive French judges awarded the top prizes to little-known U.S. wineries in the blind tasting. Thanks in part to Chateau Montelena, California was back in business, and as Jim Barrett boasted in at Time article for June 7, 1976, “Not bad for kids from the sticks.”

Aside from the heavy veil of wild vine, the Chateau appearance has changed very little. The modern vineyard, cellar, and tasting room are still housed on the castle estate built by the giant of the rope industry in the infant years of the California wine empire. The winery continues the reputation of consistent, valued wines.

THE HILLCREST REINCARNATION

While the original Hillcrest Mansion is gone, Debbie O’Gorman continues the legend with the scaled back Hillcrest Bed and Breakfast. Near the base of Mt. St. Helena the bed and breakfast is a gallery of family heirlooms. The rooms are quaint and comfortable, a large clean pool is available for daytime refreshment, and a Jacuzzi overlooking the valley is a wonderful way to relax at night. Visitors hike, fish, and enjoy romantic views that alone are worth the stay. Time spent with Debbie and her family touring old photographs and memorabilia, takes visitors back in time to an early and ambitious Calistoga and into the rich past of the Tubbs family.